I , Basic knowledge of fiber
1 , Basic concept of fiber
Fibers are divided into filaments and staple fibers . Natural fiber cotton , wool is short fiber , Silk is a long filament.
Synthetic fibers imitate natural fibers. , it is also divided into long fibers and short fibers.
Semi-gloss means semi-dullness , It is divided into glossy and matte according to the amount of matting agent added to the raw materials of synthetic fibers during the preparation process. , Half light, Total matte.
Polyester filament semi-gloss is the most commonly used There are also full light , For example, most down jacket fabrics.
2 , Fiber specifications
D is for Danel Abbreviation of , Chinese is Dan . The unit of yarn thickness , Mainly used to indicate the thickness of chemical fiber and natural silk , definition: The weight of a 9000- meter-long fiber at the specified moisture regain is DAN. . D The higher the number, the thicker the yarn.
F is short for filament , refers to the number of spinneret holes , indicating the number of single fibers Fibers with the same D number , The larger the yarn f , the softer it is.
For example: 50D/36f Indicates that 9000 meters of yarn weighs 50 grams , It consists of 36 shares.
01 Take polyester as an example :
Wash Lun yes combine become Fiber dimension middle of I indivual important Taste kind , yes I country Gather ester Fiber dimension of business Taste name say . Wash Lun Fiber dimension point Long Silk and short Fiber dimension two kind type Mode . Place Predicate Wash Lun Long Silk , yes Long Spend for thousand Meter superior of Silk , Long Silk roll Around become group . Wash Lun short Fiber dimension yes A few centimeters Rice to Ten A few centimeters Rice of short fiber.
Types of polyester filament:
1. Primary silk: Unstretched yarn Conventional spinning ) UDY ), Semi-pre-oriented yarn ( Medium speed spinning ) MOY ), Pre- oriented yarn ( High Speed Spinning Silk ) ( POY ), Highly oriented yarn ( Ultra-high speed spinning ) ( HOY )
2. Stretched yarn: Stretched yarn Low speed drawn yarn ) ( DY ), Fully drawn yarn Spinning and stretching one-step method ) ( FDY ), Full silk ( Spinning I Footwork ) ( FOY )
FDY : Fully drawn yarn Fully drawn yarn . Not related to the production process But now it is widely circulated , using it as a one-step spinning and stretching process Process code , Low speed spinning is possible , High speed stretch winding , Two processes are completed on one spinning and drawing machine , this production line Low production cost , And the finished product quality is stable , less broken ends of silk , good dyeing uniformity.
3. Deformed wire: Conventional textured yarn ( DY ), stretched textured yarn ( DTY ), Air Textured Yarn ( ATY ) in , DTY stretch textured yarn, Also known as polyester low stretch yarn , Is it stretched continuously or simultaneously on a machine , finished silk after deformation processing.
DTY : Draw Texturing yarn Stretch textured yarn . Also known as polyester low stretch yarn , Is it continuous or simultaneous pulling on a machine? stretch , finished silk after deformation processing.
DTY fibers are curly , FDY fibers are straight.
II , Basic knowledge of weaving
1 , Woven
A ,definition: Refers to the use of A fabric made by interweaving two sets of yarns, weft and long. , Such as Western clothing fabrics , casual trousers fabrics, etc.
B , Features: Stable fabric structure , No elasticity ( (except for fabrics with added elastic fibers ) Smooth fabric surface , Strong and durable , Appearance include.
C , Application : It is the most widely used in textiles. , Highest production , The most abundant varieties , The longest history , The most versatile clothing surface material.
2 , Knitting
A , definition: A yarn or a group of yarns are knitted in a certain pattern to form loops on a knitting machine. , The fabric is made by stringing the coils together. Like T -shirt , warm underwear, etc.
B Features: The fabric is elastic , the fabric feels soft , comfortable and fit.
C , Application : Its production history in textiles is not long , But its comfortable wearing performance is widely favored . Types of knitwear in recent years And the scope of application is also increasing.
Knitted fabrics are divided into warp knitting and weft knitting:
Warp knitted fabric: As the name suggests, it is the meridian direction ( Vertical Made of one or more warp yarns. , Common fabrics include mesh and nylon. Currently, super soft fabrics are basically warp knitted.
Warp knitting machine: Warp knitting machine according to the structural characteristics of the machine , Working principle and usage classification:
A ：Trico warp knitting machine( KS ) B ： Elastic Raschel Machine
C ： Jacques Raschel Machine
D ： Multibar Raschel Machine
E : Double needle bed raschel warp knitting machine F : Wire mesh raschel warp knitting machine
G ：Crochet Machine( Crochet machines
H ：Stitching Machine( stitch bonding machines ), 28 of them , 32 , and 36 stitches refer to the number of stitches per inch of the machine.
Weft knitted fabric: From the latitudinal direction ( horizontal) Woven.
Weft knitting machine: Generally, it is a cylindrical machine and a flat machine ( Flat knitting machine ), Cylindrical machines are divided into single-sided machines and double-sided machines. , Single-sided machine is divided into plain fabric , double-seat machine , towel machine , Wire hanging machine , Automatic looms and jacquard machines; Double-sided machines are divided into interlocking machines , Rib Machine , Automatic knitting machine and jacquard fabric.
01 Take ultra-soft fabric as an example :
Super soft fabrics are basically woven by warp knitting KS machines.
Generally, super soft fabric is woven by three shuttles, namely base yarn, middle yarn and surface yarn. The base yarn and middle yarn are FDY (flat yarn, semi-bright) 50D/24F , The veil is DTY ( low stretch ) 75D/144F . Some special varieties use four shuttles . The thickness of the fabric depends largely on The number of layers of fabric.
The weaving width of super soft products is about 30 cm wider than the finished product requirements ; Take 32 pins as an example , The average output of a KS machine is 1.2 tons / sky; If it is 28 pins , the yield will be several dozen kilograms higher.
The height of the finished product is determined by the weaving process. , The height of the hair varies from 1 to 5 mm , Different heights are determined by the different specifications of the discs on the machine. The weight of the finished product depends largely on the weaving process. , The weight is determined by the warp let-off and weaving style, among other things.
